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Celebrating 40 Years of Connection: Part 3

Guerrilla Vending, Fairs, Festivals and a Revolution

By Ric Conner

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1988 was a breakout year for Ganesh Himal Trading. Denise had finished law school, we moved to Spokane and business was taking off. It seemed possible that we could actually make a go of this crazy idea. During the years Denise was in school I had spent a lot of time on the road, sleeping in our VW van and selling at colleges and universities around the North West. We referred to this as guerrilla vending because at the start I would haul a load of sweaters onto the University of Washington campus, sell what I could until security came and asked me in no uncertain terms to leave. But we discovered that many campuses had a protocol for letting vendors come and set up in student centers. This besides our summer fair circuit, which included the Folklife Festival and Bumbershoot in Seattle, kept us hopping.

Interestingly enough, we now had two businesses, one working with producers in Nepal and second figuring out ways to market these unique products. I think we flew back to Nepal twice a year (no carbon footprint there) to work on designs, find new and unusual items and of course drink loads of tea with our friends. The wool sweater business was brisk (remember this was before the advent of fleece) and between Dolkar and our friend Nhuchhe we were able to sell really beautiful high quality wool sweaters. Nhuchhe would send us a hundred sweaters at a time on consignment, can you imagine? But we always paid him off and continued working with his family until just recently, selling wool hats, gloves, mittens and socks. This is where the wool – hemp blend came from also.

It was also around this time that we started to expand into other handcrafted products which funny enough coincided with us meeting more great people and drinking more tea. Some were shop owners in Thamel including a longtime friend, Topgay Lama. Sometimes shop owners just wanted to sell stuff but people like Topgay had a real love of what they sold. In fact everyone we have ever worked with has been invested in their products, which I think made it so easy for us to sell. These are not just products off the shelves but products handcrafted with pride.

Topgay is Bhutanese-Tibetan and has a great understanding of fabrics, which is part of the Bhutanese tradition. He was also somewhat of an innovative designer and had come up with a design for a butterfly jacket. But Denise, being both a weaver and designer in her own rite, knew the jacket had to be in colors that would appeal to the western market. So, and this is where something happened that rarely happens in Nepal, collaboration. We put Topgay in touch with Meera and our friends at ACP to weave the color of material that Denise wanted. Topgay would then buy the handwoven fabric from ACP at a fair price and have the jackets made in his shop. It was a trust arrangement, you don’t take my design and I don’t take your weave. This was the first of many very productive collaborations. During this time, Topgay employed a young man to help out in his shop. He trained this young man in the many aspects of running a shop and schooled him in the art of textiles. Topgay later, won the visa lottery and immigrated to the US and passed his shop to this young man, Babu Ram. The shop is still in the same place it was forty years ago and is still owned by Babu Ram. We still work with him to bring you the bags and clothing that are so popular. We’ve known Babu Ram since he was a boy. A number of years ago we attended his son Shidharthas second birthday, in the house he was able to build from his commitment, hard work and collaboration based on fair trade.

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It was also around this time that we met Darcy of Sadle Traders. Darcy’s a Canadian married to a Nepali woman and had a passion for silver jewelry and environmentally, Nepali made products. He would design pieces or adapt traditional designs for the western market. One you might be familiar with are the Makoshi earrings, translated as “buckets of happiness”, Denise’s favorite earring of all time. All of the jewelry was and still is made buy hand using traditional techniques like rolling and pounding the silver and hand cutting and forging. Darcy was also a social innovator. As I’m sure you are aware Nepal is a caste society, jewelers like other craftspeople generally work within their own castes and rarely work together under the same roof. Darcy changed that in his workshop, he hired all castes based on their abilities, paid the same good wage and had them all work together. It worked then and works today. Darcy was unfortunately badly injured in a car accident and with Sharada, his wife, and child, moved to Ireland. But Aryal, his brother in law, now co-owner, manages the shop and has expanded it into one of Ganesh Himals foremost partners, creating much of the clothing, hemp products and recycled rubber products we sell today.

As I related in the last episode our friend and Tibetan bag purveyor Namgyal had begun doing our shipping out of Nepal. He and his family have played a crucial role in the success of GHT. I would sit down with Namgyal’s father and have him help me pick out bells and other Dharma items we sold. Pemala, Namgyals wife, took on and expanded the shop. She had fled to Nepal from Tibet when she was 12 years old, the oldest of five children. As such she was in charge of her siblings and was never afforded the education they later received. She ran the little Tibetan restaurant they had and remains an incredible cook. When she started working in handcrafts her skills as a seamstress, knitter, designer and organizer were readily apparent. I can’t even remember all the different products we’ve gotten from her and her business Stupa Trading. I know it’s been Denise’s absolute pleasure to have worked beside her for almost forty years, watching someone with such talent and commitment to her community and workers create a substantial and sustainable enterprise. And of course for me the pleasure has been the many meals we have shared, prepared with consummate authority by Pemala.

I relate that last bit because it has a bearing on what transpired next in the continuing saga of the joys and difficulties of working in Nepal. In 1990 Denise and I met her parents, Wayne and Joy and a friend of Joy’s in Thailand and journeyed on to Nepal. Denise and her Dad along with Ram were going trekking a little west of Pokera. Joy and her friend stayed in Kathmandu and were totally entertained and did a lot of shopping. I was coming back to Spokane early to start work on our house.

We had known during the time we had spent there that Nepal was an absolute monarchy. This was made very clear by the fact that every shop had to have a picture of the King prominently displayed and that any verbal disapproval of the King was not tolerated. It was a one party system, the Kings party, but times were a changing. In 1990 while Denise and her folks were there a revolution broke out. It was called Jana Andolan or the people’s movement, a multi party attempt to overthrow the Monarchy. It was characterized by general strikes called bandhs, rampaging mobs and increasing violence. Everything was shutting down and increasingly chaotic. Joy and her friend were in Thamel having dinner when a rock broke through the window of the upstairs restaurant. Denise and her dad had just returned to Pokhara from trekking when they heard the news. All flights from Pokhara had been canceled and things were in chaos but their amazing guide, Ram Karki, somehow was able to talk a taxi driver into taking them back to Kathmandu, in a ride that Wayne referred to as the most harrowing ride of his life. The ride was paid in advance and when they reached the hotel the taxi barely slowed down as they flew out. Her folks’ flight was the next day and somehow (unbeknownst to them) they made it onto the last flight out of Nepal before everything shut down. They arrived in Bangkok to the news that Kathmandu was erupting in protest with thousands marching on the King’s palace and being gunned down. Denise stayed behind intending to get some work done (maybe not such a smart move but everything was evolving quickly). Did I mention also that she was a bit sick at the time, like throwing up sick? A common occurrence among trekkers in Nepal. That evening, martial law was declared in Kathmandu. Any person on the street would be shot. By sheer luck and because she was sick Ram had suggested that Denise go stay with Namgyal and Pemala (he knew more than she did) and so she hastily made her way back to their home, throwing up as she went. I’m not sure it actually saved her life since the hotels had no food but she would at least be looked after. She shared a room with young Kesang who as I’ve mentioned before is now a wonderful partner of GHT and on the board of CCF.

After three or four days of shutdown tourists & a few others were given an hour and a half to move and find food. Denise went to find Ram as they were scheduled to fly back to the States together. Walking through deserted streets with men armed with machine guns at every corner she went to a friend’s hotel to leave Ram a message and let him know she was safe. Quickly she raced back to Pemala’s house just as the clock ran out. Travel was over. In the middle of the night what sounded like rapid gun fire woke them up, only to find it wasn’t gunfire but fireworks, the King had capitulated and opened the country to a constitutional Monarchy. Nobody knows how many people died during the uprising but unfortunately it was just the beginning of a very unsettled time in Nepal. Amidst the chaos that ensued Denise and Ram were able to get a ride to the airport from a relative of Pemala’s who actually took a huge chance even being on the road and they made it safely back to Spokane. Once again our experiment in fair trade could have ended there, but as you know it didn’t. Our friends were safe, and the country was a little less stable, as it began its journey toward democracy.

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Part 3 of the 40th Year Anniversary Series: Guerrilla Vending, Fairs, Festivals and a Revolution

Celebrating 40 Years of Connection: Part 3

Guerrilla Vending, Fairs, Festivals and a Revolution

By Ric Conner

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Part 3 of the 40th Year Anniversary Series: Guerrilla Vending, Fairs, Festivals and a Revolution